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Day 17: Datil, NM to Socorro, NM

61 Miles - Riding With Dave Ortiz; Very Large Array; Ample Downhill to Rio Grande - February 17, 2008


New Mexico
New Mexico
I was on Highway 60 out of Datil at 7:10 a.m. on this brisk and chilly morning.

The road was extremely quiet! I turned back after some riding to capture the highway I had just traveled on. It was just amazing how desolate it looked out there.

Soon after, Dave caught up with me and posed right on the highway.

Very Large Array
Very Large Array
Very Large Array
Very Large Array

I biked past the "Very Large Array" - an area with large radio antennas that look like huge satellite dishes on the Plains of San Augustin.

This site reminded me of another image lodged in my mind about New Mexico: People doing scientific research and/or bomb testing way out there in the middle of nowhere. ;)

The large spectacles gave the appearance as if we were on another planet!

If I had more time, I would have enjoyed a tour of the area to learn more about them and the research happening here. To learn more, visit their web site at www.vla.nrao.edu.

Dave Ortiz
Above: Dave Ortiz was the only person to ride with me during my entire journey.
Twice Dave drove ahead, parked his truck, then rode his bike back to me before riding together. It was always great to have familiar friend in my presence during the journey, and Dave riding along with me was particularly special.

My ride was largely downhill as I traveled into Magdalena and toward Socorro into the Rio Grande Valley. That meant Dave had an uphill ride much of the way before cruising back down with me.

A few pages of bike rides we've done:

  • Around Telluride
  • 70 Miles in Chaffee County, CO
  • Creede / South Fork
  • Steve Steve
    Steve
    Dave, being the college-level photography student, took countless pictures. He got one of me riding alongside him and two as I was speaking on my cell phone at a gas station in Magdalena, New Mexico.

    Dave pointed out his latest project was capturing "pictures that tell a story," and that's why he strategically placed my bike as such.

    On The Phone With Mom

    By the way, I was speaking with my mother in those pictures. I actually did not tell my parents about this trip until after I reached the Atlantic Ocean. Sure, I casually mentioned I was outside and bike riding, but I never pointed out I was outside of Colorado ... riding on consecutive days ... in a linear fashion across the nation. ;)

    Call it charity, call it diplomacy or maybe just call it keeping my sanity, but I stood firm in my decision to withhold information about my trip to my parents. Firstly, I knew they would worry deeply, and I saw no need to "cause them to stumble" with anxiety and distress during the trip. Plus, I would have had no tolerance for any possibility that my parents might attempt, in their deep love for me, to dissuade me from doing the ride. It really did work out: My parents suffered little and are now reaping the benefits of bragging to friends and family about my feat.

    As for the rest of my family, my two brothers were aware of the trip beforehand, and they were both encouraging and amazed at my ride.

    Socorro, New Mexico
    Socorro, New Mexico
    Above: A historic sign about Socorro, New Mexico and a view of a mountain northwest of town.
    This was a comparatively easy ride with a lot of descent. Dave and I ate at Taco Bell before helping me investigate the roads in anticipation of tomorrow. (See "Quagmire in Socorro" below.)

    Socorro is just your average small town in New Mexico, but it was a meaningful landmark since the planning stages of the trip. If there was ever a time to quit, Socorro was the place. Many local friends and church acquaintences were clear that if I ever needed help, was stranded or needed to be picked up, that I should call them. I know they meant it. Socorro is located on Interstate 25, a north-south highway that leads to northern New Mexico and Colorado, and it is virtually a straight shot from Buena Vista, Colorado via Highway 285. During my planning stages, I worried that if there were any mental breakdowns or weaknesses in my commitment level, Socorro would be the best place to throw in the towel.

    Ah ... my worries were unfounded. My journey had been far from perfect with many trials (Day 10 was the worst!), but my resolve to continue was strong. Quitting did not even come to mind.

    Dave suggested if I headed north, I could probably reach my home in about a week. We laughed together over that idea.


    Route Planning Quagmire In Socorro, New Mexico

    There was only one particular segment of my planned route that I was unsure about. From Socorro, I intended to continue traveling on Highway 60 over to Mountainair. The simplest route would be to take Interstate 25 about 20 miles north (which is also Highway 60), then travel east as Highway 60 broke off on its own. Looking closer at the map, however, I noticed a light gray line signifying a minor road that traveled north-northeast (NNE) out of Socorro. This would be a short cut that would lead me away from the Interstate and directly onto Highway 60. I was open to riding on the Interstate again, but if I could just find that local road, I would save myself some distance and probably have a more peaceful ride. The question was: Where exactly is that road?

    Dave graciously agreed to search for this mysterious road in his truck. Just north of Socorro, among the small village areas of ranches and small homes replete with junk, useless crap and old tires in front of them, we searched for the road. It should be right around here! We found a road that looked like it could be the one, but disappointingly, the road merely snaked around and eventually went right along the Interstate. It appeared my map was outdated: The land to the northeast was now part of a wildlife refuge and the road was probably disbanded or inactive.

    We did not give up. Maybe there is a frontage road along the Interstate, I thought. We found a road that initially appeared to be a good one, but within a mile, the pavement became really bumpy ... a bumpy, unrideable road with a gate that prohibited entry. (Photo Above)

    I was frustrated. We saw a New Mexico State Police Headquarters on the north side of Socorro, and I had the not-so-bright idea of asking for input about all this and confirming that it was not unlawful to ride a bicycle on this stretch of Interstate highway. Big mistake.

    One woman, dressed in police gear, stood behind the counter with a bullet-proof glass between us.

    "I'm bicycling across America and I plan to reach Mountainair tomorrow. I just wanted to make sure it's okay to ride on the Interstate up to the Highway 60 turnoff."

    Simple question, I thought, but she would not give me a straight answer. She warned bicyclists have been stopped by state troopers on occasions where really strong crosswinds made things dangerous, but she also acknowleged that many cyclists bike the route all the time.

    I pressed her. "So is it okay? Will you tell me, yes or no, whether it is unlawful to bike on the Interstate."

    After rambling a little longer, she hemmed and hawwed. "Use your discretion." she said.

    Great. What the heck does that mean? I just wanted to know, on a very practical level, whether or not I would be okay to ride my bike on the highway tomorrow morning. I have personal friends who are law enforcement officials who have the competence to answer my questions and enjoy discussing matters about what is legal, illegal and what they generally enforce more or less, but I would have no luck here. My conversation with this woman was utterly useless.

    I tried one last time to get a straight answer using a different angle. "If I ride on the Interstate and a cop sees me, will I be pulled ..."

    Suddenly, the door opened loudly. Dave was on his cell phone and speaking in an annoyingly loud tone. "Uh huh ... okay ... A pen? Do either of you have a pen?" Dave clamored.

    The scene would have been hilarious, if I had not been stewing over the conversation I was having with this officer. My buddy totally interupted our conversation and broke my train of thought. I was ready to explode.

    "Five. One. Two. Six. ... Six." Dave recited, going through each number loudly as he wrote it down.

    I gave up. I mustered enough congeniality to thank the officer for her time and walked out.

    (Dave works as a photographer for a prominent group that researches and hunts around the country for the legend of "Bigfoot." The head person called Dave directly and he urgently needed to write down a number.)

    In retrospect, I should not have bothered asking, because the general rule in rural areas of the Southwest is one can lawfully ride on interstate highways just as I had done on I-10 in Arizona, if there is no legitimate alternative route or frontage road. I received this very direct answer by phone from the Arizona state police. Of course, I thought I would have been nice to confirm with the local New Mexico state police, but I would not receive that assurance. My only hope for other long-distance bike riders is my conversation with this particular officer at the headquarters was an aberration.

    Back in the truck, I had a decision to make:

    1) Ride on the Interstate 25 north approximately 20 miles and risk the possibility of a state trooper arbitrarily pulling me over, ordering me back to Socorro, and essentially ruining/wasting a day of riding. It was an unlikely scenario, but peace of mind was often paramount to decisions like this.

    2) Go an alternative route by traveling south seven miles to San Antonio, New Mexico, where Highway 380 would take me hundreds of miles east into central Texas.

    I chose the latter. I simply did not want to risk any more hinderances on the ride. Since I had a willing driver in Dave, I thought it would be a good idea to see what the frontage road (Highway 1) to San Antonio looked like just a few miles south. Morale was really low and I was indignant from the frustration of recent events.

    Arriving in San Antonio, I told Dave that if he saw a motel in town, he could just drop me off here. I didn't like that ugly frontage road with junky homes we were just on anyway, I grumbled. We saw a sign for a bed & breakfast and after introducing myself and inquiring about their rate, the innkeeper gave me a really good deal. I would stay at this B&B!

    I was so ticked off from the police station debacle, that I was not at all upset about the perception of "cheating" seven miles to San Antonio. Those seven miles are on the New Mexico State Police! Then again, the seven miles to San Antonio were straight south, meaning I gained no horizontal distance closer to the Atlantic, just like in the southern California desert.

    Changes In Plans

    The change in my route really bothered me, and I came to terms with one element of the journey that I wanted significant control over. The alternative route did not appear to have any advantage or disadvantage to the old one. Still, it was not my plan and it got under my skin. It was all about control. Anyone with life experience knows one's plans rarely turn out as intended, and flexibility was so important with such an enterprise as bicycling across America. Fortunately, after showering and settling at the B&B, I finally loosened up.

    My route had two major changes. From Globe, AZ, the original route was to continue on Highway 60 to Show Low, AZ and Springerville, AZ, before continuing east to Datil. In late January, however, I drove through my proposed route during a snowstorm and realized just how cold and wintery the conditions were in the White Mountain region in Arizona. I stayed in a cheap motel in Show Low on a night the town was being slammed with a huge snowstorm. Alarmed, I made the alternative plan of going through Safford, AZ, Glenwood, NM and Reserve, NM through mountains in western New Mexico.

    This second change would be this one. Highway 380 east from Socorro would take me parallel to my planned route about 30-40 miles south of my original route (Highway 60 east in New Mexico to Highway 82 east of Lubbock). I would reconnect with Highway 82 somewhere in central or eastern Texas, and with it being a long way off, there was no need to think about it now.



    San Antonio, New Mexico



    San Antonio, New Mexico

    It was meant to be that I stay in San Antonio. The Casa Blanca Bed & Breakfast (top photo) provided a memorable and relaxing time, and the proprietor was up early to make breakfast by 7 a.m. We talked about life in rural southern New Mexico, and the nearby Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. Many bird watchers come to this inn and leave early in the morning to watch the large crane population that makes the area home during the winter. I do recommend this bed & breakfast. Their web site is www.CasaBlancaBedAndBreakfast.com.

    Dave left for Farmington around 3 p.m. and I walked around the small town of San Antonio. Nearby, I photographed an old church with an adobe face, a common site in the Land of Enchantment. (Middle photo)

    Not much was open other than a well-stocked convenience store and deli. I bought a chocolate chip cookie dough ice cream in a large waffle cone. It was delicious! I also waited for the workers to brew decaffeinated coffee upon my request, and talked with the owner and her teenage son. They seemed impressed with my bike adventure and showed genuine interest in whatever details I shared about it.

    Inside the store, I noticed these San Antonio, New Mexico shirts that read San Antonio: Not really new and not really Mexico. The shirts were in various tie-dye designs too! I would have almost certainly bought a shirt, but discipline required that I refrain, for I did not need to carry any extra weight on my bike. I know! I will come back by car on the way back to Colorado (from San Diego, where my car was). Then I will buy the shirt and remind them of our previous encounter, gleefully informing them that I did indeed successfully reach the Atlantic Ocean. It was a great thought, but I did not do it.

    Back at the bed & breakfast, I slept on a huge and soft bed that my body thoroughly enjoyed. I even caught up with some friends by phone before falling sleep. It was a peaceful way to end the day.

       

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